Private onsen experience at the Gora Hanaouchi and Mount Fuji up close | Hakone | JAPAN | November 2015

Hakone is well known for hot springs, onsens, beautiful mountain landscape and of course, the
magnificent Mount Fujisan scenery.

In 2014, during our last trip, we had our hearts set on seeing Mount Fuji in person. We didn't and we were very disappointed especially as we had traveled over 3 hours from Tokyo in hope to see MF. The weather was crap (well, overcast but warm) and certainly not perfect weather conditions to see MF clearly.

So during our 2015 trip, we decided to stay over in Hakone not only to see MF, but also to experience our own private open air onsen set in the mountains - something we always said we would try at least once. I found us a wonderful gem, Gora Hanaougi, set within the mountains. Hanaougi is a luxury ryokan-style hotel in Gora. It offers peaceful and relaxing rooms with views of natural landscape. As you enter the ryokan, you are hit with an impressive lobby with chandeliers made out of wood and the corridor is decorated in Tatami mats. Staying here has been one of the our most elegant Japanese experiences.

Hakone is located along Tokaido, where Edo (modern-day Tokyo) is connected to Kyoto, and was developed as “shukubamachi”, a town offering food and accommodation to travellers. Not to mention the spectacular view of nearby Mt. Fuji, there are numerous tourist spots in this area, such as Owakudani volcanic valley and the beautiful Ashinoko lake.

As we checked in,  we were warmly greeted with a cup of hot green tea and Japanese sweets. We had a dedicated host for our entire stay who attended to our every need.

Our terrace room faced the Gairin mountain and forest. We were able to relax in comfort in our own private open-air hot spring bath overlooking the magnificent mountains and beautiful sky. The room is a perfect blend of traditional and modern without loosing it Japanese appeal. We stayed during the peak of Autumn so a hot soak in a hot onsen was blisssss and staying during this time of year when the leaves turned colours was wondrous. Every room has a low table made of Jindai-Keyaki wood which is old zelkova buried in volcanic ash for many years, crafted from precious wood using a traditional technique called 'Chigiri', joining wood without using any nails.

Our dinner and breakfast was served by our host and it was decadently presented on beautiful crockery. We had the finest A5 beef kaiseki meal which included fresh vegetables from the local farm, fish from inshore waters and fine beef from Hida. There were 12 courses yet we left feeling completely satisfied without feeling like you're in a food coma. The beauty of Japan's food and ingredients is that it does not leave a stodgy feeling after a heavy meal. Breakfast fast was quite extravagant with array of small dishes to sample and I must say, it certainly made a worthy Instagram photo!

Oh, and we managed to see Mt Fuji, which was the main purpose of our stay in Hakone! Any first time Japan traveler would say the time - you have an urge to see the beauty of Mount Fuji. We had been very fortunate to have the right combination of luck, planning and perfect weather to see MF in all its glory. I think my heart skipped a beat when I set eyes on it for the very first time. Standing still for a few minutes admiring something you longed to see, there is something quite serene and you feel an undisputed amazing feeling that fills up your entire body. MF is quite a beauty in pictures, but in person, it is simply awe-inspiring-ly breathtaking.

We took a cruise on Lake Ashi and returned back to the hotel to kick back and relax and to enjoy our private onsen

Dozen Ryokan | Kyoto | Japan

We took a second trip to Japan in November-December 2015. Mostly to enjoy the coveted Autumn Season.  Whilst we enjoy staying in traditional first class hotels, we also enjoy and embrace staying in a unique Ryokan experience in the heart of Kyoto.  

Dozen offers an accommodation that makes you feel as though you are living in ‘real’ Japan but with modern amenities (useful as a traveler as you just want to get ready with ease).  Guests are expected to follow certain customs during their stay. Like most households and establishments in Japan, you are required to remove your shoes before stepping into the ryokan and they have a shoe storage facility as well as being able to supply you with room slippers.

The ryokan is conveniently located minutes from JR Kyoto train station with plenty of shopping nearby but set far enough within a residential area, so great for a good night’s sleep.  Popular tourist destinations are all in easy reach where there’s an abundant of treasures literally from your fingertips.

Dozen is decorated with vibrant red lanterns, red carpet along the hallways, mural on the wall depicting a historical scene and an ornamental garden. The staff are very welcoming and we settled in very comfortably.

The ryokan, is made up of 11 rooms and a cafè hence the name Dozen (twelve).  Each room is symbolized with a Japanese pictogram. The 12 rooms are named Shiki, Manga, Chawan, Matsuri, Sumo, Ninjas, Samurai, Sado, Kabuki, Shogi and Kimono. I like how they names each guest room with a Japanese meaning behind it. Our room we stayed in is called ‘Kabuki. Kabuki is a popular form of fantasy theatre in Japan. We saw our first Kabuki show the year before so it was quite fitting to be allocated this room.

For us, we particularly enjoyed staying at ryokans mainly because the buildings tend to be many years old and have the traditional Japanese architecture of wooden buildings, bamboo smell and ornamental gardens. The room is calming with sliding paper screens, tatami mats, low tables and closets, that of typical Japanese finishing touches.  We love experiencing living the way the Japanese did over several hundred years ago, it is a far cry from the western style hotels and it certainly gave you a mindset (though, a taster) of living as a local Japanese person would have back in the days, and even in the present day.  Dozen offers a unique way to enjoy the traditional and historical rich city of Kyoto.